After a light lunch with a bottle of Boutari Retsina, we took our siesta, then set off to the bazaar area in Kusadasi, Turkey. The idea was to prepare for the world’s largest (3000+ shops) bazaar in Istanbul – but more about that later. Sal found an excellent price on a leather jacket (very chic). Beset by Turks with bargains, we politely ignored most of them. When we came to a carpet shop, we had to stop to admire some especially fine looking silk carpets. A young man (very low key and pleasant) took us inside, asked if we would mind speaking some English with him. Although he clearly understood that we were not buying, he wanted to share his carpets with us if we had the time. Well, who could resist? He showed us a 1600-knot per square inch silk decorated in a multi-colored floral pattern and border design that was lustrous and soft. It took almost one year to make and was obviously his pride and joy – as it should have been due to its exceptional quality. He rolled out and shared several other favorites while talking of their patterns and meanings. His shop, Private Collection, held many lovely treasures and would be a reliable place to buy.

We braved the gauntlet of sellers, passing other shops, then stopped to buy an eye-catching carpetbag to carry home our purchases. Virtually all of the passengers had gone on the escorted tour of Ephessos and the House of the Virgin Mary. We had been there and done that and really were not interested in the miles of walking involved.  We were fortunate to have some friends contribute photos of the site.  A first timer has got to see it though. We returned to an empty ship, climbed up to the café on the Hera deck, got a couple of cups of coffee and watched the poor tired masses return to ship. We were still up there and able to enjoy the ship sailing from port and past the old city complex. We hung around and enjoyed a savory selection of mezedes – a good omen that the evening’s Greek dinner will be great. We listened to some bouzouki music, strolled around the deck, then went to our cabin to relax and clean up for dinner.

11:50 p.m. – What a pleasant evening! We feasted on tzaziki, kefte, dolmathes, spanakopita and kalamata – just as appetizers. Followed with avgolemono (an aromatic lemon egg soup), rack of lamb with roasted potatoes, Greek salad and baklava – all accompanied with Hatzimichali and a bottle of Dapnis (a rich, soft, merlot-like red). They outdid themselves! We adjourned to the lounge for a spirited show of Greek folk dancing and Stavros on the bouzouki. It was great! As we sleep, we will sail up the Dardanelles, pass Gallipoli and head on towards Istanbul.